Auld Fittie Life
Fisheries – It is probable that there have been Fishers settled at the Mouth of the Dee, both in Futtie & at Torrie, (on the Southside) ever since Aberdeen became a Town of any noticeable magnitude. The Fishers who then inhabited these Villages are, like those along most of the East Coast of Scotland, evidently of a Race distinct from the other Inhabitants, and from their aspect, features, and other circumstances, it seems probable that they have come from the opposite Coasts of Denmark & Sweden. They occupy a Village consisting of 2-Squares of Houses, which were erected by the Town, at the South-east extremity of the Parish, and immediately adjacent to the Entrance of the Harbour. Each House consists of a But & Ben, with occasionally a small Apartment between. The Magistrates designed to have made the Houses of 2-Storeys, but the Fishers refused to live Upstairs, and they also refused to have any other than an Earthen Floor in their Houses. In both of these, though there may have been some Superstition and a good deal of Prejudice, there was also some reason, – for it would have been next to impossible for them to have kept a Wooden Floor clean, while an Earthen one, if not clean, at any rate does not show the Dirt so much, and it would have been very inconvenient for them to Lug their Long Lines and their Heavy Baskets upstairs. On the whole, their Houses are, generally speaking, as clean & comfortable as the nature of their Occupation will admit.
From the circumstance of most of these Fishers being employed as Pilots, and from their immediate connection with the Harbour, and constant Intercourse with the Inhabitants of Aberdeen, there is in them a greater degree of Civilisation than is observable in most of the other Fishing Communities. At the same time, their double Employment as Fishers & Pilots is by no means favourable to their religious, moral & domestic habits. The unavoidable want of regularity in their hours, the general practice of giving Allowances in Drink for any particular Service, and their Custom of dividing the Pilotage Money among the Boat’s Crews generally on Saturday Evening, all tend to lead them to the Public House, where sometimes a large portion of their Earnings is spent. Yet drunkenness, though prevalent among them, is by no means universal, and the number of exceptions seems to be increasing of late. A Fisherman who is a Pilot will earn as much as £1-10s. or even £2 per week during Summer, but not half so much during Winter. On an average, however, they can make fully as much as any other Labourers in the same Class of Society, and of this Money the Husband has the possession & command, while the wife retains possession of all the money arising from the Sale of Fish. It is not often that either Party manages these Gains to the best advantage.
The Fishers are a hard-working people & extremely honest, and they deem it the greatest possible reproach to cast a doubt on their honesty, which they are the more easily enabled to maintain unimpeachable, because all their bargains & transactions are for ready money. They seldom marry with persons not of their own Community, except in a few instances where the daughters of Fishers have married with Seamen & Ship-Carpenters. This may arise not so much from any dislike to form connections out of their own Craft, as from the fact that, on the one hand, a Fisherman would find a woman of any other Class wholly incapable of giving him any assistance in this Occupation, and unable to perform the hard work devolving on the Fisherwomen; and, on the other hand, a Fisher-woman, from the irregularity of her Occupation, and want of leisure & opportunity to attend to her daughters, unless when they follow her in her Fishing Employments, cannot Educate them so as to be useful Wives to persons of any other Class.
The Fishers are, generally speaking, a long-lived people and very healthy, and, notwithstanding the dangerous nature of their Occupation, there are few Accidents of serious consequence among them. Like most other Fishermen, they have a good many Superstitious Ideas & Practices, and they have implicit faith in many Traditions, and in various Omens. Thus they reckon it very offensive for any one to Count a Boat’s Crew, or a Company of them returning from Market, and it is not less so to tell how many Fish they have caught. If a Fisher be turned back when he is going out to Fish, he will on no account go Out that day, and is very much provoked. Often, too, things, which any one but they would esteem mere Trifles, cannot be spoken of without interfering with some Omen, whose influence they would hold it Sinful to doubt. It is at the same time to be noticed, that the Fishers of Futtie have less Superstitions than those that live in the Fishing-Villages along the Coast, both to the North & South, where they live almost entirely secluded from Intercourse with the inland Agricultural Population.
There is a natural tendency in all highly artificial states, such as that of our own Country, for instance, to induce a general uniformity not only on manners, dress, language, etc but even of modes of thought & principles of action; for each Class is more or less dependent upon the others, a continual communication with all its consequences must be inevitable. In Great Britain, this effect, like the Civilisation of which it is but a type, is, of course, more rapidly developed than in other Countries, on account of the greater density of the Population, and the extraordinary I daily increasing facilities that Population possesses for bringing all its parts into contact with each other; and thus it is that all the more salient points of Character or Individuality are worn away and that we cease to look within the Boundaries of our own Shores for anything strikingly distinctive. But this, though true of the great bulk of our Population, is open to many curious exceptions. There still exist, even in Great Britain, whole Classes of people who, for any advantage they derive from their proximity to their more enlightened Countrymen, might as well be in the most distant parts of the World.
Aberdeen Map – John Wood Survey 1828
We may mention the markedly dissimilar characteristics of the Fishermen, Agriculturists & Miners in Cornwall; the Colliers of Staffordshire and the North of England etc; whilst there are others again, who, although not secluded from Society, exhibit a marvellous tenacity in preserving intact their own independent & original habits: of this Class, the people engaged in the Fishing Trade are probably the best representatives. In showing to what an extent differences may prevail in all the points we have before enumerated, even in a single Town, we can select no instance more favourable than that of the Fisher Fowk of Aberdeen in Scotland, of whom an excellent account has been given in the ‘London & Westminster Review, which we, therefore, proceed to quote. Some of the text has been borrowed from Ann Allardyce‘s ‘Footdee in the 18thC‘.
Mrs Ann Allardyce, nee Blair, was born at Eyemouth in 1777. She was removed as a child to Aberdeen, and resided at Footdee with her Parents, her father being an Officer in the Coastguard. Mr Blair died in 1801, and soon after Ann was married to Rev Alexander Allardyce, Minister of Forgue. Her husband died of Apoplexy 2nd June, 1833, and his Widow & Family removed to Cromarty, where they lived on a Property bequeathed to her by a cousin. From early years she had exhibited distinct Literary & Poetical gifts, and her fine Song on the death of Jean Maxwell, the famous Duchess of Gordon, was frequently, but erroneously, attributed to the Pen of her Husband.
Aberdonia “Footdee in the Last Century” (the 18th) was Printed at Aberdeen in 1872. Mrs Allardyce’s daughter Mary died at Cromarty, 18th May 1878. Ann Allardyce Publications
Aberdeen a handsome & flourishing Town consists of about 60,000 inhabitants, who are distinguished even in Scotland for their shrewdness. At the Mouth of the River Dee, and in 2-Squares, called Fishers’ Squares, separated from the rest of the Town by only a few Dockyards, is an Enclave of people who differ more in dialect, customs, superstitions & other peculiarities, from the Aberdonians, than the latter do from any of the other Inhabitants of the Lowlands of Scotland. They are a completely separate Community; and their Dialect is so different from that of the Working Classes of Aberdeen, that though the 2-Groups have a sufficient number of words in common for transacting Business with each other, most of the words used by the ‘Foot Dee’, or Fittie Fowk,’ among themselves, are unintelligible to the central ‘Aberdeen Folk’. If a native of Aberdeen were to wander into the Squares inhabited by the ‘Fittie Fowk,’ who are almost all Fishers & Pilots, he would run no little risk of being pelted out again with stones & haddock-heads. The ‘Fittie Fowk’ scarcely ever intermarry with the other Citizens. Their marriages are generally ‘Penny Weddings.’ (Scottish Tradition of the Guests buying the food for the reception at a Wedding, or the penny in a Shoe would ensure proximity to Wealth)
They seldom send their children to School, and almost never to a promiscuous one. Their Sons are almost invariably brought up to follow the Occupations of their Forefathers, and never learn any regular Trades, except that perhaps now and then a youth, more adventurous than usual, becomes a Ships-carpenter. They live together Patriarchally, sometimes 3 or 4 Generations in a single room. The oars are laid above them on the couples (or rafters) of their cottages: the children may be seen sleeping on nets in corners; and on the walls are Creels, Baskets, and other Fishing-tackle. Their Fishing Boats descend by Primogeniture. (Inheritance by the 1st born male child)
The Females of this small Community Laboured under great disadvantages, both Moral & Physical; their incessant Toils left no time for Mental improvement, and their constant exposure to the Weather without any sort of Bonnet, together with their frequent immersion in Salt Water, gave a hardness to their features & a coarseness to the Skin, with a far-from-pleasing expression of Countenance. The Figure also became early Bent from the weight of the Creel. The middle-aged women wore a Stuff Gown with a large flowered Calico Wrapper or short Gown over it, the young girls a Stuff Wrapper & Petticoat, with the Hair in a most unbecoming fashion, either thrown back with a large Comb which reached from ear to ear, or put up in a very slovenly manner, with a “Head Lace” of Red Worsted Tape. The boys under 15 were the worst clothed; they ran about in a very Tattered condition in old Garments of their Brothers or Fathers’, “a World too Wide,” and seemed to be kept waiting until their strength could enable them to gain a decent covering. The little children were more comfortable, those of both Sexes being clad in a simple Dress of White Plaiding, called a “Wallicoat,” which, with their white curly heads & rosy Countenances made them look very pretty as they puddled with their mimic Boats in the Pools of water. Ah! what may have been their History since that Period; and how different must any of the Survivors be now in 1843. There was still another Class, who, though few in number, formed rather an interesting part of the Society. In several of the Families there was, in addition to the husband, wife, & children, an old man or woman, known by the appellation of Lucky-Daddy or Lucky-Minnie the grandfather or grandmother of the Family. These, when unable to work for themselves, went to live in the Houses of their Sons or Daughters, and seemed to be kindly treated by them. Some of the men were very Old, born in a former Century, and appeared to take little interest in what was passing, sitting in a Chair in the Sun outside the door, or led about by one of the children. The grandmother had her place by the Fire, and assisted in many of the lighter Domestic Labours. Her dress was somewhat peculiar; she always wore a Blue Cloth Hood or “Trotcosie,” and a Man’s Coat over the rest of her attire, with a large pouch or pocket by her side. These old women were often skilled in the Medical Art, and their advice sought in preference to Doctors; but some individuals of them were also dreaded as being an “unlucky foot,” and possessing other Powers which made it dangerous to offend them. I often regret that I had neither the power nor opportunity of conversing with those Ancient people. I was merely a silent Spectator and unheeded Listener to what was passing. Had I been able to ask questions I might have obtained many traditional records of the Olden time.
Their women have not merely a costume different at all times from that of women in a similar rank of life in Aberdeen (distinguished by an all but exclusive preference for the colours white & blue and consisting generally of a blue striped wrapper, blue baize petticoat, and Close Cap, called a Cockermonny Mutch, with Moggins, or Stockings without Feet, and they wear no Shoes; but they also adopt very generally the masculine Blue Jackets of their Menfolk. The men do little more that go out Fishing with the Boats. The women search for line bait, assist in carrying the nets, bait the hooks and do all the drudgery, while their masculine Lords are looking on with folded arms. The women, both of Footdee and those of the same Ilk in several other Villages on the East Coast of Scotland, carry great loads of Fish to Market on Market Days in Creels (large Wicker Baskets on their shoulders and rest on their hips, sometimes as many as 11-miles before Breakfast; and so necessary does the Load become to enable them to walk steady, that when they are returning home they prefer to carrying Stones to carrying an Empty Creel. They never walk but in single file, and they have a Superstitious dread of being Counted, a fear of which the mischievous boys of Aberdeen availed themselves to annoy them by calling as they pass – One, Two, Three – what a lot of Fisher Nannies I see.
Aberdonia – Footdee in the 18thC – Ann Allardyce
Moggins in my time 1940‘s were long socks folded down over the feet to form a ready pair of improvised woollen double layer indoor House Shoes that would also collect all the lint off the floor, while keeping your feet warm from the ‘cauld lino‘ on a freezin’ Winters Nicht in an ever Open-fire induced draughty Attic abode. You know the phrase – och she’s got moggins o’ money – indicating that she stuffed her many socks with filthy lucre to hoard such for an unlikely uncertain future while we – jist had nethin at a’.
Far’s mi Moggins Ma? – Steckin’ tae yer Gymmies!
– to weet the sma’ end o’ yer moggins – to be over your Ankles in Water.
A salutation equally dreaded by them is the cry ‘Baud’s fit in yer Creel,’ i.e. there’s a Hares Foot is in your Creel. This saying derives its meaning from the circumstance that a hare was seen to run through their ‘Fish Town’ on the evening preceding a day on which a great number of their people were lost at sea. To point at their Boats with the forefinger is the surest way of offending them. Among these people, all the Superstitions which useful knowledge is banishing from the homes of the Poor still flourish. The belief in lucky days & omens of stars & clouds is to the present hour a practical faith under the then low Thatched Roofs of those Squares of White Cottages among the Sand-hills of the Sandy Beach at the Mouth of the Dee, occupied by this curious community, who still tremble with the fear that a neglect of these things would bring great evils down upon their heads. They observe Old Christmas, and all their transactions & calculations are made by Old Style, to which they tenaciously hold, saying, a New Style is man’s makin’, but Auld Style is Gawd’s.’ Now all these things are nearly as strange to the Citizens of Aberdeen as to the rest of any part of the Empire. Having mentioned the word Haddock, it would be unpardonable to omit all notice of the delicacy so famous in London, the ‘Finnan Haddie’, which form one of the chief articles of the Trade, of the people herein described. Finnan (Findon) is a small Village famous only for its Fishery, situated about 6-miles to the South of Aberdeen. Of the excellence of this Fish perhaps the most decisive proof that can be given is that the Burghs on the Firth of Forth and other places have regular manufactury’s of a spurious article, which they vend under its name, and doubtless to the detriment of its reputation among the deceived but un-suspicious purchasers. But then there is Arbroath Smokies
A “Ftttie Loon”
Alexander “Sandy” Chapman. A well-known “Fittie Loun” was Tailor-Sandy as he was known to all his large Clientele of Friends & Customers. Sandys father was a Carpenter who worked in Hood’s Shipyard, and bis 2-brothers – Robert & William were also both Carpenters. Sandy, when quite a boy, was playing in the house at “Kind of Man’s Buff,” or, as it was commonly called in those days “Glim-glam,” when he gave his foot a twist. Little notice was taken but complications ensued, and the upshot was that be was threatened with the loss of a Leg, which ultimately contracted at the Knee joint, and he had to Knee a Crutch forever afterwards. Whatever ambitions he might have had as to his avocation in life and doubtless his aims were high – were practically destroyed, and he betook himself to the Tailoring Profession, and learned the Business with the Firm of Simpson & Whyte, at 21–Union Buildings (c.1831). I can remember him from bis Boyhood days as one of the neatest-dressed men I ever saw – a trait he inherited from his mother, who was a very particular woman. Sandy’s father had died (when he was quite young, the mother betook herself to Laundry Work, at which she was said to be adept. Sandy’s admirable oiled looks, in a swallow-tailed Coat, and his frilled Shirt front, without any Neck-tie (he always wore 18-ins Fronts for appearance, although 14-ins was his Size), and the invariable Flower in the Buttonhole, if one was to be had, gave him a very distinguished appearance. Shortly after the completion of his Apprenticeship, his friend, Mr Findlay, of the Firm of Steele & Co, Hatters, 47-Union Street, opened a Tailor & Clothier’s Shop in connection with their Hat Trade, and engaged Sandy to look after it .with a view to a Partnership at some future period – an arrangement never carried out, for, on Mr Findlay’s death, which occurred very suddenly a good few years afterwards, Sandy bad to relinquish the Business. During the years he conducted the Business, his Shop was the happy hunting ground of all the Politicians of the District; and it was said that Candidatures were frequently arranged, and even Magistrates Appointed, in Sandy’s Shop. It was a treat to hear Sandy, who was a Radical out and out, discussing the Topics of the day with some old Conservative. Sandy could hold his own and never lost his Temper. Numbers of the Old Wives of Fittie, when they had a Letter to write or an Appeal to make, wended their way to his Shop and got it done on the spot. Sandy’s Shop was also a great meeting place for Seafaring People, principally Masters & Mates of Vessels, who come off long Voyages, and who had come down from London or any of the other large Seaports to see their friends, great numbers of them being old Footdee Boys, who had not forgotten their old Cronies. If one wanted any news about Friends at Sea, and the News could not ‘be got at the “Aberdeen Lloyd’s” Sandy Chapman’s Shop – it could scarcely be got elsewhere. Chapman was a good Judge of Oil Paintings, and it was said he was the means of helping one or 2 struggling young Artists on their way to success. Besides, he was a bit of an Antiquarian & Natural History Collector, and a gatherer of Curios of every description, and his Sailor Friends were in the way of bringing him numbers of these things from every Quarter of the Globe. At Mr Findlay’s death, which was sudden, as already mentioned, the Agreement as to the Partnership being only Verbal, Mr Chapman had to betake himself elsewhere and opened a Tobacconist’s Shop in Marischal Street, where he continued for a considerable time, till failing health compelled him to give it up, and death, at last, overtook him.
Footdee Character
An original character well-known in Footdee at that time was Charley Hillyer, the Carver. Charley was a Cockney of the Cockneys. He was brought to Aberdeen by some of the Shipbuilders, there was a good deal of Carving required in those days of Wooden Ships the Trade then being at its best in the shape of Wooden Figureheads, Scrolls, etc, and a number of people were kept constantly employed at that sort of work. Charley’s Workshop was on Waterloo Quay, where some of the London Company’s Sheds now stand, next door to Mrs Anderson’s Public-house, which stood back a little from the Quay. Charley himself, although clever, was about the most conceited little man I ever knew. His height was only about 5ft-3in. He was always dressed in the Top Fashion of the day. A saying of his came to be Proverbial at Footdee “My brother Tom is the best Carver in the World, but I can beat him.” However, there was another thing besides Carving in which he did excel, and that was as a shot. It was said he seldom or never missed his Mark.
Another Artist in the same Line, and in the same Locality, but of another Stamp altogether, was James Wishart Jr. Jamie being quite a jolly, unassuming fellow, and a clever hand with the Chisel.
There was Jolly John Lyon, mine Host of the London Tavern, who was universally known throughout Footdee as the Dispenser of a good Dram. John was an Englishman, a Native of Liverpool, who came to Aberdeen as Manager of the Boilermaker Department of Messrs Abernethy & Co. Nearly next door to him was “Auld Johnnie Duffus,” the Ship’s Chandler & Iron Shipbuilder, whose place of Business was a great Rendezvous of those engaged in Shipping & Shipbuilding. Jamie Cumming used to sell Whisky from what was a Ship’s Chandlery and former Iron Foundry belonging to John Duffus; all while his Customers waited for the Assistant to gather together the essentials for their Imminent Voyage – candles, soap, ropes, oil or indeed a Hailing Trumpet.
Doric Columns 